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In Essentially America (2007)
By Paul Wade
“New England inns are romantic, especially in winter,” says innkeeper Cathy Kubec. “People have this dream of getting snowed in at a quaint 18th or 19th century clapboard house, snuggling up to a roaring fire, going for rides in horse-drawn sleighs.” At the Governor’s Inn in Ludlow, Vermont, she and her husband Jim make sure that the dream does not fade in summer or autumn. There are rocking chairs on white-painted porches, glasses of cold lemonade and antique china cups brimming with tea from a silver pot.
Every inn and historic B&B across the USA is a descendant of the New England inn. This year, the New England Inns & Resorts Association celebrates its 100th birthday. Arguably the oldest hospitality organisation in the world, NEIRA boasts some 300 members, all dedicated to keeping that romantic image alive.
So what makes the classic New England inn? According to British-born innkeeper Jane Howard Sabo, “A classic New England inn is not a cookie cutter place; it should have cosy nooks and history. But most of all it has to have innkeepers who greet you by name, who remember your face.” She and her husband Karl have run the Deerfield Inn for 20 years. In a glorious 350-year old Massachusetts village, this 1884 hostelry fulfils those criteria. “I like to think of the innkeeper as the producer of the play. The curtain rises at 7am and falls at last shout, 11pm or later. Some actors lose their props, forget their lines. The producer pulls all the threads together and makes it all look effortless, if there is no work involved at all.” And like ballet dancers, innkeepers are always smiling: “Of course. Our job is to make guests feel relaxed and happy.”
Guests also expect innkeepers to be founts of local knowledge. Frank and Julie Hanes left the South for the Inn at Manchester in Vermont in 2003. As newcomers, they have worked twice as hard to make sure that they have lots of tips. Guests rely on these rural concierges to know where to eat, where to go, what to do. “For example, we suggest visitors go to the hamlet of Pawlet, with Mach’s, a real Vermont country store, as well as the Pawlet Potter and a lady who makes lampshades to order. Visitors love to see real communities.”
Echoing every other good innkeeper, the Hanes insist that theirs is more than just a job. “We love being innkeepers because we like looking after people. It’s not work, it’s a life style. It makes us feel good!” For them, the secret of success is simple: “We are a bed and breakfast, so we make sure that the beds are comfy and that the breakfast is good. We also keep the rooms wicked clean, and make sure that the common areas are welcoming. That’s another big difference between a motel and a New England B&B: guests like to meet, talk, share their experiences.”
No wonder regulars return to New England inns, just to be part of the dream. “I live in one of the prettiest villages in New England,” says Jane Sabo. “I can cycle to work and take my dog to work. We have a great team that has worked with us for years, and guests who return year after year. What could be better than sitting on a rocker with a glass of iced tea, catching up with friends?”
If it weren’t for the accents, you could almost be in Olde England. There’s even a collection of teapots on display. The Red Lion dates back to 1773, when the Binghams opened a store, stagecoach stop and tavern on the main road between Boston and Albany, NY. Then, as now, the inn was at the heart of village life: a meeting place for angry farmers during Shays Rebellion (1786); a platform for a couple of owners who were elected to the state senate; an inspiration for an artist. Illustrator Norman Rockwell immortalised the Red Lion in his painting Stockbridge Main Street at Christmas, still reproduced as a popular Christmas card. Not surprisingly, five presidents have visited; more surprisingly, so did John Wayne and Bob Dylan.
Neighbouring houses have been bought and converted into guesthouses, helping the inn to grow from eight rooms to over 100. The most popular are in the former village Firehouse and in Meadowlark, once the studio of sculptor Daniel Chester French. Beneath the hotel, the Lion’s Den pub has free live entertainment every night, as well as draught beer and, in winter, roaring log fires. On sunny days, sink into a rocking chair on the porch. From there, little seems to have changed, though the first owners might be puzzled by the outdoor heated pool and the hot tub.
The Red Lion Inn, 30 Main Street, Stockbridge MA 01262 (www.redlioninn.com, 001 (413) 298-5545). |
When it opened its posh doors in 1900, the Lenox was the tallest building in Boston and the most luxurious hotel in New England. Ever since, this Back Bay hotel has been a celebrity hideout. Judy Garland lived in Suite 423 for three months; Ali McGraw and Ryan O’Neal checked in while filming Love Story. Singers as diverse as Enrico Caruso, Tony Bennett and Blondie based themselves here. But the Saunders family, owners since 1963, looks forward rather than back. With environmental initiatives ranging from using non-toxic cleaning products to individually-controlled heating and air conditioning, they have won awards for being green.
The Lenox Hotel, 61 Exeter Street at Boylston, Boston, MA 02116
(www.lenoxhotel.com, 001 (617) 536 5300).
All members are listed on the New England Inns & Resorts Association’s website www.newenglandinnsandresorts.com, along with themed packages such as golf, family holidays etc, and ‘hot deals’.
The Deerfield Inn, 81 Old Main Street, Deerfield, MA 01342. Tel: 001 (413) 774 5587, www.deerfieldinn.com. Double rooms with breakfast from $125.
The Governor’s Inn, 86 Main Street, Ludlow, VT 05149. Tel: 001 (802) 228 8830, www.thegovernorsinn.com. Double rooms with breakfast from $159.
The Inn at Manchester, Route 7A, Box 41, Manchester Village, VT 05254. Tel: 001 (802) 362 1793, www.innatmanchester.com. Double rooms with breakfast from $155.
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