HERTZ NORTH SHORE DRIVE
By Kathy Arnold In Essentially America (2007)

From Boston, thousands of holidaymakers head south for Cape Cod. Those in the know drive to the North Shore, where the ‘other Cape’, rocky Cape Ann juts into the Atlantic. Close together along this 75-mile route, Kathy Arnold finds handsome Georgian homes, fine museums and art galleries, country inns and seafood galore.

From Boston, take Route 1A north, then Route 114 to Marblehead. Founded by West Country fishermen in 1629, it prospered as the ‘greatest Towne for fishing in New England’. Today, yachts are moored in the tiny harbour, but the well-preserved 18th-19th century homes in the Old Town recall the great days of seafaring. Visit gems such as the Jeremiah Lee Mansion, with its rare hand-painted wallpaper and elegant period furniture.

Follow Route 114 to Salem, famous for the Witch Trials of 1692. To find out what triggered the hysteria, visit the Witch Museum. But, Salem has much more to offer: Chestnut Street, lined with historic homes, and the House of the Seven Gables that inspired author Nathaniel Hawthorne. Don’t miss the outstanding Peabody Essex Museum. What began two centuries ago as a collection of sea captains’ souvenirs has grown into one of the best museums in New England. Highlights include Asian export art, Japanese art and maritime art. And, if you are in Salem in October, join in the Haunted Happenings that lead up to Halloween!

North of Salem, turn onto Route 127. This is the old coastal road; follow it to – and all around – Cape Ann. The first stop is Hammond Castle, a mock medieval castle built by the man who invented the couch potato’s favourite toy: the TV remote control. Dr John Hammond also worked on top secret electronic weapons and his quirky mind is reflected in his home, with its chunks of Roman buildings and a huge 8,200-pipe organ.

Continue on for Gloucester. Fans of The Perfect Storm know that this was the home port of the Andrea Gail, just as the Crow’s Nest is a real bar (334 Main St) where George Clooney and Steven Spielberg dropped by during filming. Cape Pond Ice, featured in Sebastian Junger’s book, still provides ice for the local fishing fleet. Take their tour to see ice sculptures, the working wharf and learn about The Perfect Storm connection.

From spring through autumn, be sure to take a whale watching cruise. For these kings of the sea, it is ‘all you can eat’ at Stellwagen Bank, the feeding grounds off Gloucester. On boats, such as the Yankee Clipper, marine biologists explain the hows and whys of these enormous creatures. Seeing one – or several – is a real thrill!

Further along is Rockport. With its little harbour and art galleries, cottages and net lofts, this artists’ colony could be in Cornwall. Motif No 1 is the nickname of a dark red fishing shack on Bradley Wharf that is one of the most painted and photographed buildings in America.

Loop round the point of Cape Ann, then follow signs for Route 133 and Essex. Antiques collectors trawl the shops; diners order fried clams at Woodman’s. Credited with inventing this dish in 1916, Woodie’s also serves steamed clams, chowder and lobster rolls. Nautical types enjoy the Essex Shipbuilding Museum that celebrates the launch of some 4,000 two-masted vessels – more than any other port in the world.

Route 133 leads to Ipswich, with more First Period Colonial houses (1626 to about 1725) than anywhere else in the USA. Appleton Farms, established in 1638, is one of the oldest farms in the country, with stone walls, tree-lined carriage paths and historic farm buildings. On the coast, the 2,100-acre Crane Estate offers white sandy beaches, a salt marsh wildlife refuge, landscaped gardens and the Great House at Castle Hill, a 59-room mansion filled with antiques. Below, the Victorian guesthouse is now the Inn at Castle Hill, a stylish, small hideaway.

From Ipswich, Route 1A leads to Newburyport. Along the unspoiled coastline, Plum Island is home to the Parker River National Wildlife Refuge. On the Atlantic Flyway, this is an important staging post for migratory birds, such as waterfowl and peregrine falcons. Another shipbuilding town, Newburyport still has the handsome homes of merchants and sea captains. The old Custom House on Water Street has been converted into a maritime museum, the Courthouse is surprisingly grand, and the Cushing House displays Chinese porcelain and other treasures, collected by Caleb Cushing in the 1840s, when he served as the first official representative of the USA in China.