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By Kathy Arnold (Essentially America, 2005)
"We Americans take it for granted today, but the concept of freedom of religion and the separation of church and state started right here in Providence." John McNiff, a ranger at the Roger Williams National Memorial, looks after one of America's smallest national parks. His patch is only 4˝ acres, and he worries more about squirrels than grizzly bears; but as he points out, Providence has a significant place in America's history. And, as Kathy Arnold reports, the capital of Rhode Island is also a lot of fun.
If you like old cities, then you'll love Providence. There is no finer stroll than a walk along Benefit Street. The gravitas of Brown University, one of New England's illustrious Ivy League colleges, is matched by the first-rate art collection at the Rhode Island School of Design. Fancy some shopping? America's oldest indoor arcade is here, matched by a brand new complex of famous name shops. Or, if you want to just sit and watch the world go by, then you are in the right place; Providence is known for its cafés and restaurants. Best of all, there's a real buzz in the air; the last decade has seen a total revamp of the downtown. The result? What was once a second-string city was designated by Money Magazine as the 'Best Place to Live and Eat in the East' in 2000 and 2001. No wonder city fathers from elsewhere come to discover the secret of successful urban revitalisation!
Of course, when it comes to facelifts, it helps to start with good bone structure. Providence is defined by hills and rivers, with plenty of historic buildings to provide character. Overlooking the east bank of the Providence River is College Hill, the historic district; to the west is what is called Down City, with its offices and shops. Along the river, the waterfront has been spruced up, with new bridges plus Waterplace Park, complete with cobbled walkways and even an ampitheatre. Then, there's the Bank of America Skating Center, where would-be Torvill and Deans can rent skates and glide out onto the ice. But wherever you are, orienting yourself is easy: just look for the 223-ft tall state house, capped with a white marble dome, second in size only to St Peter's in Rome. Glistening at the top stands the gilded statue of the Independent Man, the feisty symbol of 'Little Rhody'. Supposedly, the whole of America's smallest state lies within his view. At least, that's what locals will tell you.
Like many European cities, Providence is best explored on foot. Start on North Main Street at the Roger Williams National Memorial. Here, rangers explain how Williams was banished from theocratic Massachusetts because of his radical ideas. Born in London and a cousin of Oliver Cromwell, Williams moved 50 miles south of Boston in 1636, naming his settlement Providence, in thanks for 'God's merciful Providence unto me in my distress'. Although considered disrespectful and disreputable by hardliners in Massachusetts, the community soon grew into a major and wealthy port, trading with Britain, Canada and the Caribbean. This tiny memorial park stands on a common lot of the original village. That's what makes Providence different: here you really can walk in the settlers' footsteps and visit the homes of some of their immediate descendants.
Head south on North Main Street, and you can't miss the needle-like 185-ft spire of the First Baptist Meeting House. Although this was built in 1775, the congregation was founded by Williams in 1638, so this is the mother church of the American Baptist movement. Architect Joseph Brown was inspired by designs for St Martin-in-the-Fields. And that name, Brown, crops up often in this city. Two centuries ago, the Brown brothers were a family to be reckoned with.
But Providence is no historical theme park. Opposite the church, Thomas Street looks like a film set for a costume drama; but peer through the Georgian windows of Number 11 and you'll see bold contemporary art. This is the Providence Art Club, the second oldest in the nation. There's more art up on Benefit Street, at RISD, pronounced Ris-dee, shorthand for the Rhode Island School of Design. One of America's most prestigious art colleges, it also boasts a wide-ranging museum (closed Mon). Among the 65,000 treasures are Impressionist masterpieces and a massive carved wooden Buddha from Japan. But, don't miss the furniture collection, because two centuries ago, the cabinetmakers of New England, particularly the Rhode Islanders Townsend and Goddard, were the match of Chippendale.
Benefit Street itself is a national treasure. Originally a lane called Back Street, it was paved in 1758 for the 'common benefit of all'. Studded with handsome trees and lamp-posts, this is like a handbook of early-American architecture. Nicknamed 'the Mile of History', its brick pavements are flanked by some 200 Colonial, Federal, Greek Revival and Italianate homes, often with their original boot scrapers and hitching posts. Many are open to the public during the annual Festival of Historic Houses (first weekend in June). Open daily is the Providence Athenaeum, an impressive library, where today's readers continue a tradition dating back to 1753. Not that the hushed atmosphere stopped Edgar Allan Poe from chasing a widow, Sarah Helen Whitman, round the racks. He wrote her the poem For Helen. She agreed to marry him if he gave up drinking. He couldn't and returned to Baltimore.
Wherever you look in this part of Providence, you see baggy-trousered students and corduroy-jacketed professors. As well as RISD, College Hill is home to Brown University. Opened in 1764, the seventh oldest college in the USA was endowed by Nicholas Brown, another brother in that local dynasty. At the entrance to the campus, on College Street, the handsome iron Van Wickle Gates will be shut. They are thrown open just twice a year: to let new students in and graduates out.
Time to meet another Brown brother. Wealthy merchant John played host to Thomas Jefferson and George Washington at the brick house on the corner of Benefit and Power Streets. Designed by brother Joseph, the John Brown House proves that Providence was no backwater when it came to fine furnishings. According to President John Quincy Adams, it was 'the most magnificent and elegant private mansion I have ever seen on this continent'.
Making a change from fine homes and history are the shops and eateries over on Thayer Street that cater to students and professors alike. Try Café Paragon (234 Thayer Street, 401 331 6200) for a juicy burger and crisp fries. Or, return to the corner of Thomas and North Main Streets, where Café Chocklad (2 Thomas Street, 401 383 4764), a Danish restaurant-cum-deli, is perfect for a light meal or just dessert - try one of the chocolate specialities.
When it comes to shopping, most Americans think of malls. And most consider them a phenomenon of the 20th century. Over by the Convention Center, for example, is Providence Place mall, whose 170 stores, restaurants and cinemas played a key role in the regeneration of downtown. But, the idea of going to a mall is nothing new here. Locals have been doing that since 1828, when The Arcade opened. Built of granite in the elegant Greek Revival style, the glass roof looks down on three floors that bustle with boutiques and cafés. Nearby, check out risd/works at 10 Westminster Street; this gallery/shop is dedicated to RISD's art graduates and teachers. And on the third Thursday of every month from March to November, some two dozen art galleries, museums and historic buildings are open for Gallery Night (tel: 401 751 2628, www.gallerynight.info). And all are linked by free Art Buses.
Not only is Providence the second-largest metropolitan area in New England, it is also one of the fastest-growing. But, the centre is compact and walkable, with a population about the size of York. Hop onto one of the LINK Trolleys to get from North to South, or from the East Side and College Hill across to Federal Hill. This is the city's Little Italy, where signs along Atwells Avenue announce Angelo's Civita Farnese, Cassarino's, Pane E Vino and the Scialo Bros Bakery. A longstanding favourite is Camille's (71 Bradford Street, 401 751 4812), where the menu ranges from clams, oysters and crab cakes to pastas and maple-scented pork chops. The sweet-toothed head for Pastiche (92 Spruce Street, tel: 401 861 5190), a tiny café that serves nothing but desserts.
I have always been a fan of diners, and Providence is where the concept began back in 1872 with Walter Scott's horse-drawn lunch cart. Dating back to the 1890s is Haven Bros, a direct descendant of the now rare mobile diner. Parked at night on Fulton Street next to City Hall, Haven Bros dishes up plump hotdogs, lobster rolls and milkshakes.
But, if there is one 'don't miss', it has to be WaterFire Providence, the innovative combination of 100 bonfires and music along the city's rivers. At night, this free 'fire sculpture installation' is magical, with the scent of burning pine branches, flames reflecting on the water and world music soaring from hidden speakers. Catch it on 20 evenings between May and October (tel: 401 272 3111, www.waterfire.org).
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