FALLING FOR NEW ENGLAND
By Kathy Arnold in Crystal News (2005)

Nowhere in the world is autumn more spectacular than in New England. Here, in the northeast corner of the USA, leaves turn to fiery red, glittering gold, deep purple and startling orange. But as Kathy Arnold reports, New England has even more to offer than this annual display.

As the birthplace of the United States, the six states of New England are also the oldest part of the USA. The city of Boston has twisting lanes, cobbled streets and Victorian street lamps. New England maps sport familiar names such as Lincoln and Plymouth, Exeter and Portsmouth. Even villages retain an Olde Worlde look, with a grassy green, Georgian-style homes and flowery gardens. It is all easy on the eye, with quiet back roads that are perfect for that fly-drive holiday.

But, unlike old England, the weather is much, much better: summers are hot, so it's picnic time every day. Autumn, or fall, brings warm, sunny days and crisp nights - a combination that halts the production of chlorophyll (the chemical that turns leaves green), so reds and oranges blaze through. Across endless hillsides, the tapestry of colour produced by maple, sassafras, mountain ash, hickory and sumac stands out against dazzling blue skies. No wonder 'foliage season' attracts 'leaf peepers', who ooh and aah at Mother Nature's glorious show.

To see it for yourself, hop on a plane to Boston's Logan International Airport. From there, it's an hour's drive to New Hampshire. The so-called Granite State could not be more different from old Hampshire: instead of small fields and hedges, expect a massive mountain range, dense forest, clean, clear lakes and those picturesque villages. The first tourist was John Wentworth, the British Governor of Massachusetts who popped up to Lake Winnipesaukee for his summer hols back in 1769. The lake, one of the largest in North America, is still a holiday destination. For all the fun of the fair, go to Weirs Beach. See how the other half lived at Castle in the Clouds; built a century ago, this eccentric mix of Norman, Tudor and Swiss chalet architecture is in Moultonborough. Or, enjoy the water in a canoe, or a cruise aboard the M/S Mount Washington.

But the major attraction is the White Mountains. The backbone of New Hampshire attracts weekend hikers as well as serious mountain climbers. Of the 86 named peaks, the most famous is Mount Washington, one of the Presidential Range, named predominantly for US presidents. At 6,288 feet/1916m, Mount Washington may not sound that dramatic, but you can see Canada from the summit on a clear day. And getting to the top is half the fun.

You could hike or climb, but this is America. In 1861, they built an 8-mile/13-km toll road, so that a carriage drawn by six horses could haul tourists right to the top. Today, you can drive your car, but I recommend the van (shuttle bus) for the steep, 12% ride! More fun is the Mount Washington Cog Railway. Dating back to 1869, this was the world's first mountain-climbing railway. Still fired by coal, the little engine huffs and puffs its way to the peak at a steady 4mph, slow enough to take great photos along the way.

Like Snowdon in Wales, Mount Washington is renowned for its unpredictable weather. I have left the base in T-shirt and shorts on a steaming August day and arrived in a flurry of snowflakes at the top. So, do take warm clothing. Another New Hampshire must is the 'Kanc', the Kancamagus Highway. Paralleling the Swift River from Lincoln to Conway, this 35-mile/55km drive remains unspoiled: no houses and no petrol stations. Stop along the way to admire waterfalls and the magnificent panoramas.

As for shopping, New Hampshire is tax free, guaranteeing even more bargains, from designer fashion to practical everyday clothing. Shop till you drop at outlet stores in Tilton and in North Conway, which also boasts one of the League of New Hampshire Craftsmen stores. Like its six sister shops, it is a cornucopia of fine crafts, from jewellery and pottery to textiles, woodwork and more.

At the start or end of a trip, allow time to explore Boston, my favourite American city. Follow the 2.5-mile/4km Freedom Trail that links 16 important sites for an easy lesson in American history. You can almost hear the fiery speeches about liberty that led to the Revolution of 1776. For a witty slant on the past, take the Duck Tour on an amphibious craft that starts on land, then launches into the Charles River. Cheer baseball's World Champion Boston Red Sox at Fenway Park; watch lightning made to order at the Museum of Science; eat seafood down by the harbour.

Another favourite destination is Cape Cod. Broad beaches, towering dunes and whale watching trips, are just a few reasons to drive add this to your itinerary. Eat lobster with your fingers; potter round art galleries and antiques shops; explore the historic villages of Sandwich, Chatham, Wellfleet and Truro. And visit the museum dedicated to President John F Kennedy in Hyannis, the resort town where his family still has a summer retreat.

FALL TIPS
The fall colour starts in northern New England in late September. From Maine, New Hampshire and Vermont, it then spreads south through Massachusetts to Connecticut and Rhode Island. Peak viewing time is the first two weeks of October, especially the Columbus Day long weekend, October 8-10, 2005.